Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
